2019/05/11

Camp: Notes on Fashion

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You may have heard about the Met Gala. Don’t you? But what about the theme Anna Wintour and Andrew Bolton, chief curator of the costume institute, have chosen this year? Camp: Notes on Fashion It is the biggest fashion exhibition in 2019 and invite millions of visitors to the Metropolitan Museum of Art till September 8th.
Susann Sonntag wrote about Camp in 1964. Even if Camp wasn’t invented by Sonntag, her essay is mostly cited to explain Camp. Especially to explain the exhibition and the red carpet looks. And yes, there have some very campy figures. But mostly it was just costume. It’s a big mistake to think that Camp is just a bunch of feathers, some glitter, an oversized wig. Of course, these elements can be, but it starts from the inside. Camp is rooted deeply inside the soul.
„Camp taste has an affinity for certain arts rather than others. Clothes, furniture, all the elements of visual décor, for instance, make up a large part of Camp..." (Note 5) So it's not unusual to find Camp in a exhibition about fashion. Andrew Bolton choose obvious examples like Thierry Mugler's Shell Dress or a dress like a printed paper doll be Jeremy Scott for Moschino. This is obvious Camp, but sometimes it is hidden, it's a small button in the shape of a circus artist.
But much bigger as the exhibition itself is the Gala held always on the first monday of may. All the leading figures in fashion attend. Company’s pay a lot for the tables, the ability to invite their muses from music, film or social media. But even with a big donation, no quest will get in without Anna Wintours approval. Now, some days later it’s time to think about the exhibition, the quests on the red carpet, and the theme itself. Join me!
"Camp taste is a kind of love, love for human nature. It relishes, rather than judges, the little triumphs and awkward intensities of "character." . . . (Note 57)
This absence of love, but also an overdose of it, was shown on the stairs that leads the invited gala quests into the exhibition. There have been dresses with feathers, ruffles, many sequins that reflected bad taste. There have been pimp's in embroidered frocks, uncomfortable looking, definitely not that campy. So Camp can be a thousand feathers, but not inevitably. Sometimes they are just feathers. One example of a missed opportunity is J-Lo. She's trying so hard to be Camp, choose a tight silver dress as always, but forgot the fun part. If you watch er passing by Katy Perry trying to get into a Hamburger dress, you see all she is missing that night. Camp is to wear a Hamburger, unable to use the arms, and enjoy all the fun life is offering.
Katy Perry is a campy figure, Kim Kardashian and Celine Dion too. We don't have to talk about Lady Gaga and her costume changes. She knows exactly what we are expecting, and she delivers a lot more than that. Camp is a gesture, pure extravaganza for the world and for yourself. A couture show with a million feathers on the runway becomes camp, when a woman in the audience starts crying because of the beauty of the dresses. "Camp taste identifies with what it is enjoying. People who share this sensibility are not laughing at the thing they label as "a camp," they're enjoying it. Camp is a tender feeling." Susann Sonntag
 

2019/04/20

Lost My Heart In Florence

I've never been that much impressed by a city, as I am with Florence. We planned that trip spontaneous, it was something like a honeymoon. Some other cities have been on the list, even Paris again. Lukily we ended in the city of the Renaissance. And I'm sure it wasn't the last visit.
Before the trip I asked my boss, born and raised in Florence for some tipps, and I booked some museums to avoid to much waiting for tickets. We had the Uffizi galleries on our list, the David at the Academia and Palazzo Pitti... All in all we visited arround more or less 12 museums.

Florence is about fashion, it became rich because of it's cloth makers and even the Medici family started in that business before they became rich and famous. 
For fashion addicts the Costume Gallery at Palazzo Pitti is a must-see. Currently they are showing how animals influenced fashion in an exhipition called Animalia Fashion. Designs from Dior, Valentino, Iris van Herpen and many more designers and fashion houses are shown next to stuffed animals, paintings and sculptures from ancient times. 
The second spot for fashion enthusiasts is the Gucci Garden, or Gucci Museum. We felt brainwashed by the shown items and ready to spend some money at the store, that sells special items from the Gucci Garden Collection. But I was also surprised by the designs and how the current collections reflect the history and the archives of Gucci.

After a lot of art, a little shopping is always nice. Next to luxury stores, vintage and antiques dealers and a lot of gelato we found Richard Ginori. Founded in the 1730's it is finest table wear made in Florence. The shop is more a showroom and an amazing treasure chest. I fell in love with a series called Oriente Italiano. A cup with a cover will remind me on Florence and keep my coffee warm. 
This is just a small description of our trip. You need a few more pages to write about that amazing city, the landscape, the light, the architecture, the art... You need a room with a view, an aperitivo and an open mind. 

2019/04/08

Spring Is Here


Freaking Out - Summer is coming! I mean, winter wasn’t really part of the show during the last couple of months, but mostly it was gray outside and much to cold for less then 3 to 5 layers of clothing. I’m bored from winter clothing, even if I like some of the pieces very much. Now they have to stay in the closed!
I’m checking my closed and being so in love with an few items, that will be an integral part of my spring summer wardrobe. Working in fashion means that you are a year ahead, so I saw a few favorites during the fashion weeks and in showrooms last July. I feel in love, but still had to wait for the delivery 6 months later. Now it’s time for them to shine and make me smile!
I wanna show some of my new favorites, even if only a few of them are easy to find on the sales floor or online. (I’m not that much into online shopping. I like to support local dealers. I like to touch fabrics. I hate to wait for delivery or have to start a search for missing packages. And of course it’s better for the environment.)
1 - Lightweight Nylon Coat by Random Identities
Stefano Pilati previous worked for Prada and Yves Saint Laurent (The Yves hasn’t been removed at that time), later at Ermenegildo Zegna. In 2018 he presented his very unique genderless collection to the world and I fell in love with it. It’s more affordable in contrast to his previous designs, but also more desirable because of the gender free approach. It’s modern and inclusive.
I bought the coat as a Christmas gift to myself and it became the perfect companion. Especially for me a frequent traveller it fits easily into your hand luggage and weights nearly nothing. I wear it extra large, even if I would also into a size small. But I’m not that into small…


2 - Neon Palms Shirt by MSGM
I like shirts for summer. And that special one caught my attention from the first moment on. It’s a bit nostalgic and acid. Even that one fits better in two sizes bigger, it’s more relaxed. There are also some more color combinations in the collections, and shorts in the same print for a pajama look. If your like festivals, that could be nice for a Coachella style. And Troye Sivan wore it too…
3 - Deconstructed Football Shirt by Martine Rose for Nike
Are we done sportswear? Never! That shirts might not be the first choice for the typical sports guy, but it’s a catch for for fashion addicts with a soft spot for Balenciaga. Martine Rose is part of the menswear design team, and that shirt is 100% her aesthetic. The color is crazy, the fit super loose - Best buy! (Check her designs for the Nike Monarch. It’s not looking that good in my size, wearing an 46, but nice for a slightly smaller feet.)
4 - Dickies 874
That pants are amazing! They very cheap, super comfortable and come in a lot of colors. I wear mine a bit shortened because of proportions. You will find similar versions of that design in a many designer collections. Bur why spending a lot of money for a copy if the original is better and less expensive?
5 - Chucks 70
The classic Converse are not that comfortable in my opinion, but the 70’s are. Something ist different, but I can’t tell you exactly what it is. Try them, you will like them! But I don’t like the regular color combinations, so I use the design template on the converse website or buy cooperations. You might know the CdG Play ones withe heart, but the Undercover designs are nice as well. I wore them in yellow at my wedding.


6 - Vintage
I’m not that into pre-worn things, but I like vintage or items from previous seasons. The prices are often very good and some brands are worth collecting. My current favorite is a vintage Helmut Lang suit from the late 1990’s in a kind of color like pantones ‚Living Corals‘, color of the year 2019. Perfect! And I like my Jil Sander Double Face Cotton Jacket in tangerine. It was a catch, brand new and under 10% of the original price. So keep your eyes open for special items!

2019/03/23

Just Married



Zählte man Hochzeitstage in Wochen, wäre die erste Woche geschafft. Es fühlt sich gleich an, nicht anders als das Leben vorher und doch auch ganz neu. Und gemeinsamer. Die Rolle ist nun klar definiert, es heißt nicht mehr 'mein Freund' oder 'mein Partner'. Es heißt Mein Mann und ist Bekenntnis!

2019/03/08

GNTM

Ich zähle die Jahre nach GNTM Staffeln. Ich habe vergessen, wer da alles Teil war und noch schlimmer, wer da alles gewonnen haben könnte, nur um dann doch wieder in der Versenkung zu verschwinden. Es kommt mir vor als hätte erst im letzten Jahr Lena Gehrke zusammen mit Stefanie Giesinger im Finale gestanden und die unglaubliche Möglichkeit gehabt eine große Karriere beim deutschen Privatfernsehen an den Start zu bekommen. Und besser noch: Frauenbilder zu definieren. 
Ich habe leider auch wieder verdrängt, dass es um Quote geht und Störfaktoren bleiben müssen, dass nie um Mode geht und immer Designer ans Tageslicht gezerrt werden, für deren Kreationen bei GOT die Mauer errichtet wurde.
Und ich schaue es trotzdem wieder bis zum bitteren Ende!

2019/02/04

Zurück

Eine Woche Insel mit Idealtemperatur. Warm genug für Klamotten jenseits des Wollpullis, kühl genug um angezogen zu sein.
Keine Kleidung ist nie eine Option, der Moment des Anziehens ist immer Teil des Tages. Selbst die Jogginghose am ungeduschten Körper während des ersten Kaffees ist gewählt und nie zufällig. Es sind Posen des Alltags – nicht ganz so ausgefeilt und zelebriert wie bei Beau Brummell,  aber definitiv nicht unbedacht.
Neon hebt sich gut ab vor rot sandiger Erde...

2019/01/27

Insel

Ich schaue auf die Küste Lanzarotes, schaue den Wolken und den Möwen zu; ich habe eine Cola in der Hand und höre nur das Meer. Es ist warm genug für ein T-Shirt, aber es ist nicht schwül klebrig. Alles ist perfekt. 
Das Essen ist gut, und unprätentiös. Die Gesellschaft auch. Es geht früh ins Bett, aber erst nach der Betrachtung des Sternenhimmels und gezielt an Sternschnuppen gehefteten Wünschen. 
Die Insel ist ein Traum, den ich gerne für mich behalte. Ich will sie mit wenigen teilen, weil selbst der weitestete Strand am Ende ganz schön klein sein kann und der Sand hier noch nicht einer Müllhalde gleicht.
Trauminsel gefunden!